JS pads have Gold or Silver on the surface for the ultimate in tone. Metal particles are also embedded directly into the film - this high tech achievement gives you an extremely durable pad. Using a Metallic pad is like using a pad that is entirely resonator - all that beautiful tone is reflected to the listener. Leather hurts your tone by absorbing it. Recover all that lost tone by installing reliable JS pads - its the best thing you can do for your horn. The flat soft surface makes a perfect and quiet seal when closed on the tone hole. They are well worth the cost and will save you money by lasting many times longer than leather pads. You will find the tone they bring to your horn to be unequalled by any other pad/reso combination.

JS pads are extremely durable and there have been no reported skin failures so far.

These pads are very flat and it is very important that toneholes be flat as well (not recommended for rolled or thick soldered toneholes). JS diamond tonehole files are the ultimate answer for perfectly flat toneholes with a minimum of labor.
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• They fit right into conventional saxophone cups using the common floating method. Domed metal resonators are standard. Smooth faced nickel silver, Noyek and other types of resonators are special order.

• They do not swell with moisture, warp, dry out, or rot.

• JS metalized pads are absolutely airtight and seal much better than common leather pads.

• The pad surface is extremely durable, thin/flexible and the pads are very quiet when closed against the tonehole.

"I love the new Jim Schmidt pads. I've never played a Selmer Series II with this much guts, Thank you, thank you, thank you! You can be sure that I'll recommend you to all saxophone playing friends." Mike Van Arsdale U.S. Air Force Band.

"I just got my sax back. I knew that I would have a considerable amount of sound, but never did I imagine I would get this much! I have never played a sax like this, nor have I heard of one. I can play down to pppp or way up to ffff. I just can't say enough, never have I had a 950 dollar sax play like a million bucks." Keith Hartley

"I am absolutely knocked out with the sound and response that I am now enjoying, thanks to your remarkable pads. My Mk6 tenor has never played too well around low B and Bb since I bought it over 30 years ago - it certainly does now, with subtones and the full spectrum of dynamic expression available as never before. I have to say that the action feels more precise and clean, a benefit that I was not expecting. The leveling of the tone holes with your diamond abrader and the careful adjustment of the pads has left the instrument leak-free, with a crisp and punchy sound that I just love." Robin King

"I can honestly say I am absolutely thrilled with the way my horn turned out, response, feel, playability and the quietness of the pads are absolutely remarkable. I have owned this particular alto for over twenty years and I can say it has never felt or played this well." Jim Nesbit

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FOR PHONE ORDERS & DETAILS CALL OR FAX TO 559 875 0659

GO TO SHOPS AND SUPPLIERS THAT INSTALL JS SAX PADS

JS PRODUCTS ARE AVAILABLE THROUGH JL SMITH COMPANY - ph. 800 659 6073

JS PADS AND DIAMOND FILES ARE AVAILABLE ONLINE AT WWW.MUSICMEDIC.COM

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JS SAX PAD INSTALLATION TECHNIQUE

DIAMOND ROTARY TONEHOLE FILES.

Tonehole rims must be flat for JS pads. JS diamond tonehole files are your best bet for achieving perfectly level toneholes. Do not skimp on this step or compromise your work with steel files. Flat toneholes are essential for JS pads and JS diamond tonehole files were developed for this purpose. JS diamond files cut faster and smoother than other files and the diamonds do not seem to wear out. Specify medium or fine grit. Remember to check the true-ness of tonehole rims with the bare metal side of JS tonehole files. Be sure to rub off any tonehole burrs or sharp edges with fine sandpaper or scotch bright abrasive. Beware of toneholes that are already too short from sloppy manufacture, previous filing or other damage (call for repair options). 2-1/2" diameter files are available for baritones. 1-3/4" files are available for low C# toneholes. Go to my prices/ordering page to order replacement diamond skins. GO TO PRICES & ORDERING

Click to enlarge image and view instructions for my rotary tonehole file set (see price list below).

Most popular pad sets are in stock. If I don't have the sizes of an unusual brand then you must determine the pad size by measuring the smallest inside diameter of each cup or measure the outside of the cups and subtract .080" (2mm). Note that the inserts are not flexible and will not force fit into a cup that is too small.

DO NOT USE SHELLAC FOR THESE PADS

Standard shellac is very brittle and will not form a lasting bond to the plastic. Heat and clean out any old shellac. I recommend "Amber color hot melt stick" (part #S102 from J. L. Smith) or similar hot glue. Apply 3 or 4 bits of glue around the maximum diameter of the cup (in the corner), apply heat and drop in the pad.

With a leak light in place and the pad lightly closed, warm the cup and then use a sharpened wire to lever up the plastic rim of the pad in the area of a leak (see pinvise tool below). Be careful not to heat the wire tool or the hot wire will damage the insert. The plastic inserts can take just as much heat as leather pads but no more. Beware that pads will compress slightly, so close them firmly to make an impression and re-check them. Make sure that they are not to light on the side nearest the axle. Expect to invest a few more hours perfecting tonehole flatness and pad fitting than you would with leather pads. Also expect better tone and fewer adjustments later on. For faster installation see "SELF LEVELING" below.

Octave pads take some extra care because it is difficult to see if they are leaking. Check the body octave pad with a leak light. A leak light won't fit into the neck but you can check for a perfect seal by closing the big end off with your hand while placing the small end in your mouth, apply vacuum (close the end with your tongue) to check for a leak.

CLEANING

The sugar in our body chemistry can build up on a pad and cause it to stick. To clean a gold pad, insert paper over the tonehole, close the cup and drag out the paper (do this when the pad is sticking). Rubbing alcohol on a cloth or alcohol swabs will also work. Use magic dust to treat the pad to prevent sticking from recurring. For leather or other pads that have a tendency to stick - order "JS Magic Dust" . This dry lubricant works great (it is not graphite). It is non-toxic and being a lubricant - it can only help the keywork. JS Gold pads have a small percentage of magic dust embeded into the skin along with the gold. The dry lubricant releases slowly throughout the lifetime of the pad to help prevent sticking.

SELF LEVELING JS SAX PADS WITH COIL SPRINGS

JS pad springs make installation of JS pads a snap. Add $3 per pad set for coil springs. The pad must be free to fall in and out of the cup without friction. If the pad is tight in the cup then select a smaller pad or forget the spring for that pad. Place a small dab of glue on the back of the pad in the very center. Warm the glue and stick the coil spring into the glue so that it is perpendicular to the pad and let the glue cool & harden (do not heat the spring). Cut the spring to approx 1/8" length. Now place 3 or 4 small bits of glue in the empty cup at the maximum diameter. Warm the glue in the cup and drop in the pad. Press the pad into the cup just a little and hold it in place while the glue cools. With the key in the instrument and lightly closed on the tonehole, warm the glue to a liquid state and watch the spring try to push out the pad so that it automatically levels itself on the tonehole. The pad should not be forcefully bottomed out in the cup while the glue is molten or it will not come out level. You should be able to move the hot cup up and down and see the pad move in and out of the cup a little to make sure that the pad is not bottomed in the cup. Hold the cup perfectly steady during cool down (or you can wedge it at the kicker). A wet rag applied to the cup will help speed cooling. Use S102 glue from JL Smith because of its quick cool down.

When setting up cups that are linked together with mechanisms - start at the bottom of the right hand and work upward, leaving out the upper pads till last. Repeat with the left hand starting from the bottom. If some of the linked cups/pads are too high above the tonehole just reheat them while holding down the lower touchpiece that is connected to it by a mechanism - vary the pressure to make it come out right while observing that both linked pads are level. You can correct all your adjustments this way because the coil spring will take up the loose pad clearance.

This method works on JS pads because they are flat and have a stiff backing. It doesn't work on octave pads and may or may not work on very small diameter pads or pads that are way off center on the tonehole. The pad can be just a little light in the front opposite the key-hinge but should close completely with light finger pressure.