Traditional felt pads will need to be punched with a ¼" center hole. JS pads and other high tech pads with an existing ¼ center hole will work fine.

The magnets can be cleaned with compressed air (hold firmly) or adhesive tape. Each magnet has a north & south so you must pair them correctly. Stack the loose magnets on top of the silver washer magnets so they will all have the same polarity and attract to the magnets that you will place in the cups.

Deep cups as found on Old Haynes and Powell etc take a thicker housing. Regular depth cups take the standard housing. Check the cup depth by temporarily placing a magnet and copper housing on the silver washer, then place another magnet on the outside (touchpiece side) of the cup so that the copper housing and magnet will be temporarily held inside the cup. When there is no pad installed, the magnet side of the silver washer should be even with the cup rim. Copper housings of various thickness are available.

Hold the copper housing down securely against the center of the cup when soldering. I recommend stay brite solder because of its strength. Make sure there is no debris in the magnet housing. Insert a magnet (correct polarity orientation) into the copper housing and use the special radiused stainless steel punch ($5) to crimp the copper around the magnet to hold it in place. Hammer lightly (about 5 to 10 times) so you do not deform the cup or crack the brittle magnet.

A $5 plastic peg with a magnet in the center (not visible) helps to orient each magnet so it has the correct polarity in the cup before peening. A groove is cut into the peg to give clearance for pointed arms and a cushion is provided to prevent damaging the cup.





The magnets will be ruined at 150 deg F (too hot to hold) or if super frozen. Beware not to overheat when polishing the silver washer (use wet sandpaper). If buffing a key, hold in bare hands to judge the heat. Fluorescent leak lights are cool but some incandescent bulbs are too hot for the magnets.

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